American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Rockies, Dieppe Mountain, Roosevelt-Churchill-Stalin Group, Muskwa Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Dieppe Mountain, Roosevelt-Churchill-Stalin Group, Muskwa Range. After our previous visit (A.A.J., 1986, page 184), we were so enchanted with the region of many unclimbed peaks that we returned in 1987. The problem is the approach with ferrying food and equipment and crossing streams. On June 11, Barbara Pasenow-Zimmermann and I left the bus at Mile 442 on the Alaska Highway. We traveled for four days along the woodroad to the abandoned Davis Keays copper mine. After a rest day, we climbed a ridge that led to a pass to the Magnum Creek valley. Finally, after a seven-day approach, we placed Base Camp four kms east of Dieppe Mountain in a side valley. After reconnaissance, we decided on the long, steep east ridge. After bad weather, we set out on June 24 at six A.M. At ten o’clock we got to the beginning of the ridge proper beyond a minor peak. We had to traverse two 70-meter-high towers. In places we broke into deep snow up to our thighs. There were some cornices. Most of the rock was of 5.2 difficulty with a 90-meter section of 5.4. In lightly falling snow and wind, we climbed the corniced ridge to the summit, which we reached at 7:30 PM We bivouacked beyond the second tower on the descent. There are other interesting unclimbed peaks in the region, but we had no more time. It took us three days to take the same route back (no more double relaying of loads). We had to belay each other while crossing Yedhe Creek.

Ralf Zimmermann, Deutscher Alpenverein

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