Lindeman, North Couloir, British Columbia Cascade Range. On November 14, Rob Freeman, Tim Hudson, John Petroske and I climbed a four-pitch snow-and-ice couloir on the north face of the north peak of Mount Lindeman. The prominent couloir parallels the north-edge route and averaged 45°. We approached via Centre Creek; the last five miles of the road were passable with a four-wheel-drive vehicle. We followed the timber slope southeast up the valley, staying close to the stream. From a meadow, we could climb either of two gullies on the right (south) side of the basin; the west one was easier. We contoured east under the broad northwest face and climbed to the higher (southern) of the two saddles between MacDonald and Lindeman. The route begins on a low-angle ice slope and steepens to the base of the couloir. From the top of the couloir, we scrambled class-3 to the north summit and then worked along the ridge class-4 to the main summit. We rappelled down the south side of the west ridge of the north peak.

Ken Johnson