American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Thunder Mountain, Northeast Face and Glacier, Bella Coola Area, British Columbia Coast Range, 1986

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Thunder Mountain, Northeast Face and Glacier, Bella Coola Area, British Columbia Coast Range, 1986. In September 1986, Reed Dowdle, Han Timmer and I approached by float plane from Bella Coola to Compass Lake. We hiked through tundra to a tarn beneath the Thunder Glacier. The climb itself was via a long snow gully to the main upper glacier and then through a maze of séracs and short ice walls. Several major traverses to avoid ice cliffs brought us to the summit ridge between the two peaks, Thunder Mountain and Mount Tzeetsaytsul. There were three technical ice pitches that required ice tools and front-pointing with ice-screw protection. Three rappels on the descent were made from bollards.

Fred Beckey

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