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North America, Canada, British Columbia, Mount Moore, British Columbia Coast Mountains

Mount Moore, British Columbia Coast Mountains. Located south of Tatlayoko Lake and west of Chilko Lake, Mount Moore is a prominent mountain that features a spectacular hanging glacier, ice sheets and couloirs on its 2500-foot-high, broad northern face. Irving Day, Jim Couch and I flew to a base near the mountain in September. The difficult climb of the north face was done in cold, windy weather. A snow crust had formed over ice in the morning, but this turned to slush during the day. I turned back because of crampon problems after five pitches in the couloir leading to the upper glacier, but Day and Couch completed the 25 pitches of the long, slow ascent. The upper section had much exposure and was difficult to protect. They made a chilly bivouac on the descent. We rate it as Grade IV. The angle is a constant 50° to 60°.

Fred Beckey