American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Mount Waddington and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Mount Waddington and Other Peaks. Andy Tuthill, Bruce Anderson, Mark Bebie and I and Canadian Joe Bajan climbed the south side of Mount Waddington on July 30. From Base Camp at 7000 feet on the Dais Glacier, in marginal weather we followed the original Wiessner-House line. We third-classed to the end of the ramp and roped up for 15 pitches over good rock and ice to a bare, rocky, cold summit. We saw several pitons left by the original party. In a gathering storm, we bivouacked in the schrund formed by the summit tower on the northeast side. The next morning we descended to the west via the Angel Glacier and down a 1200-foot couloir at the northernmost point of the Dais Glacier (IV, 5.7, 37 hours round-trip). On August 2, Bebie and I traversed Cavalier, Squire and Halbredier to an unnamed spire south of Halbredier. We ascended the north ridge from the notch between the spire and Halbredier (I, 5.9). On August 3, Bajan and Tuthill climbed a prominent buttress visible from Base Camp on the Dais-Regal divide (II, 5.7). Anderson and Bebie repeated this on August 5. That same day, Tuthill and I climbed a new route on the 3000-foot south face of the northwest peak of Waddington. Starting from a prominent couloir at the base, we ascended on some verglas to its head and cut back right across a prominent snowfield. Instead of following the main couloir, we exited right on a verglas-coated rock ramp and ascended left and up for several pitches to the top of a spectacular flying buttress. Following this to an obvious short couloir, we exited just below the northwest summit at the top of the Angel Glacier. We descended as on the previous main-summit climb (IV, 5.7, 17 pitches, 20 hours round-trip). Anderson and Bebie repeated this climb on August 6.

Steven C. Risse

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