American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mounts Logan, Steele, Wood, Augusta and Upton, Icefield Rangers

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Mounts Logan, Steele, Wood, Augusta and Upton, Icefield Ranges. During the 1987 climbing season there were 14 groups that climbed in the Icefield Ranges, as well as five that skied. Most of the expeditions were on Mount Logan. Canadians Steve Langley, John Lajeunesse, Matthew Friesen, Stewart Buroker, Dave Chase and Matt Groll climbed Logan’s east ridge, as did Americans Dick Ratliff and Paul Richins of a joint Canadian-American party led by David Loeks. Canadians Don Serl, Jeff Marshall, Greg Foweraker and Mike Carlson climbed Mount Augusta by its west rib and then ascended Logan’s east peak by the east ridge. Canadians Pierre Bay, Don Daniel and Yves Gilot were successful on their climb of Logan via the King Trench. Five expeditions failed on Logan’s east ridge: four American expeditions led by Wally Orr, Phil Boyer, Ron Beauchamps and Steve Young, and Scots led by Charlie MacLeod. David Cheesmond and Catherine Freer are missing after their attempt on the Hummingbird Ridge and are presumed dead. Canadians Martyn Williams, George Henry, Joseph Johnson, Liz Desmore, and Roger Mitchell climbed Mount Steele along the southeast ridge. Canadians Gerald Holdsworth, Rory McIntosh, Mary Clayton and Liz Hofer climbed Steele via the Washburn-Bates route which goes through the saddle between Steele and Lucania. Holdsworth later joined Donjek Upton, Garth Mowat and Paul Langevin in an unsuccessful attempt on Mount Upton. Canadians Pat Sheehan, Greg Horne and Jeff Weir climbed Mount Wood, although Ron Chambers, Bob Haney, Ray Breneman, Bruce Sundbo, Charlie Zinkhan and Clerence Summers did not make it to the summit.

Lloyd Freese, Kluane National Park, Canada

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