American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Revolution Rock and Montgomery Cliff, Durango Area

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Revolution Rock and Montgomery Cliff, Durango Area. The approach is via a gully to the west of Sweeney’s Restaurant parking lot, north of Durango. Revolution Rock is the lower-angled slab. Sandinistas is the 150-foot route that begins at the very lowest point and goes up past four bolts. There is a moderate runout near the crux and a long runout on a 5.8 section right off the ground. It was first climbed by Lynda Pritchett, Alex Duncan and me in July. (I, 5.10a.) Path of Dissent goes up 40 feet right of Sandinista. One point of aid was used to get past the third bolt. (I, 5.10.) Rebel Waltz is 60 feet farther right. There were long runouts on easy rock. (I, 5.7.) The last two climbs were first done by Pritchett and me in August. On Montgomery Cliff, Duncan and I did No Exit in July. This route lies on the crag above the slab. On the north face is a right-leaning dihedral with several blocks in it. Go to the two-bolt belay and rappel off. (I, 5.8.)

David Kozak

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