American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Canyonlands National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Canyonlands National Park. A free climbing permit is now required in both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Druid Arch's south leg, east side, was climbed solo on February 7 and 8 by Paul Midkiff. This arch is in the Needles district of the park. North Butte of the Cross was first climbed by Paul Horton and Lyn Watson on May 15. They used no pitons or bolts (III, 5.9). It is near the northeastern border of the Glen Canyon National Recreational Area in the Maze of Canyonlands National Park. Four new routes were established in Lockhart Canyon on the cliffs behind the sandbar which is the first stop on the Colorado River for those running Cataract Canyon. The site is 20 miles down river from the standard put-in at the Potash Mine. This is roughly five miles southwest of Monster and Washerwoman Towers, although the climbs can only be reached by river. These routes were climbed in July by Mike Mayer, Brett Maurer and Christine Blackman: Fist Fight (I, 5.10b), Beach Layback (I, 5.8), Dawn Delight (I, 5.10a) and Finger Fun (I, 5.11b). In the Taylor Canyon area of Canyonlands National Park a number of new climbs were made. Saddle Tower Buttress was climbed by Tom Thomas and Dan Mathews (IV, 5.11-, A2). The tower is at the head of Rough Canyon, an offshoot of Taylor Canyon in the northwestern part of the park. The same pair made the first ascent of Ekker Butte (II, 5.11-), in the Maze district of the park. Antelope Tower was climbed by Thomas and Tony Moats (II, 5.10, A2). This is near Horseshoe Canyon. Jake Tratiak and Robert Alledrege climbed Monkey Pin (I, 5.8) 2½ miles from the junction of Beef Basin Road #104 and Bobbys Hole Road in the Needles District of the park.

Eric Bjørnstad

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