AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, California, Glen Aulin Area, Yosemite National Park

Glen Aulin Area, Yosemite National Park. A number of fine routes have been done in this area over the past few years. The best approach is from near Pothole Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. This cross-country approach is much quicker than the trail from Soda Springs. Local climbers have taken to calling the main formation above the High Sierra Camp “Pluto Dome.” This is the formation with the route Hiatus listed in Roper’s High Sierra Guide. Below and right of Hiatus is a slab containing a number of fine one- and two-pitch routes done in 1987. These were reported in the December 1987 issue of Climbing and will not be listed here. In addition, the following routes have been done. Primate Crossing is a right-diagonaling flake/crack to the right of Hiatus. This three-pitch route was done by Rick Hooven and David Chen. (II, 5.11c.) Bad News Bears was done by Don Reid and me in 1985. It is the farthest right chimney system on Pluto Dome, easily visible from the High Sierra Camp. (II, 5.10c.) Cooking with Teflon lies on a northwest-facing slab across the river (west) from the camp. It is a finger crack in low-angle, very polished rock. This three-pitch climb was done by Mike Forkash and me in 1987. It requires a large assortment of thin protective devices. (II, 5.10b.) California Corner was climbed by Walt Shipley and me in 1987. This route is a mile downstream from the previous route and ascends a large, left-facing comer. (Four pitches. II, 5.9+ .)

Alan Roberts