American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Deadman Buttress, Sonora Pass Region, 1982 and 1984

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Deadman Buttress, Sonora Pass Region, 1982 and 1984. In July 1982 Don Neer and I climbed the Arête Route up crack systems on the central of the three buttresses on the south side of Highway 108, ½ mile east of Chipmunk Flat. The route is on the arête on the left of the rock when viewed from the highway. (II, 5.9.) Dave Parks and I did the Dike Route in August 1984. This is a four-pitch route up a difficult dike system to the right of the previous route. The first pitch is the crux. At the top of it, one can climb straight up through a trough and a dihedral or one can traverse right on the third pitch and follow cracks through a roof (III, 5.11a.)

Stu Polack, Unaffiliated

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