American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Storm King Mountain

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Storm King Mountain. On July 12, in a long push from Rainy Pass, I did a new route on Storm King Mountain. The north side of the peak has a small pocket glacier with two couloirs at its head. I followed the right one for several hundred feet on 50° snow and ice until being forced up class-5 rock on the left of the couloir. More moderate rock, followed by snow and ice, led to the final section and crux of the couloir, which was blocked by a large chockstone. The couloir ends in a notch between the west summit and a spectacular tower. I climbed the right side of the notch, not difficult but with a lot of loose rock. The north ridge of the west summit provided a fast descent to the pocket glacier (III, 5.7).

Steven C. Risse

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