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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Baring, East Buttress of South Peak

Mount Baring, East Buttress of South Peak. On May 20, Ken Johnson and I climbed an interesting route on the south peak of Mount Baring. We approached via the straighforward south slopes of Baring from old logging roads. We followed up the remains of the road from a large washout and climbed through the timber clearcut to open forest. Then we traversed to the northeast for some way to reach the prominent snow gully which leads to the notch east of the south peak. We climbed the 40° snow-and-ice gully for several hundred feet. We got to an obvious notch, where I found an old steel carabiner. From there, four roped pitches of rock brought us to the summit. (III, 5.5.) We descended the northwest ridge. It took us eight hours from the road and eleven hours round-trip.

John Petroske