North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Davis Peak, North Face, Southern Pickets

Publication Year: 1988.

Davis Peak, North Face, Southern Pickets. Andy Cairns and I made a difficult approach to the northern cirque of this outlier of the southern Pickets. The actual rock climbing, gaining 4000 feet, was delightful, as the numerous handholds buoyed us four pitches up the prominent central chimney (probably the melted-out version of the 1974 Kloke-Simon route). We then exited left for three pitches on an exposed rib for some delicate face climbing. Re-entering what was now a gully, we surmounted a succession of monstrous chockstones to top out near the full-moonlit summit. (IV, 5.10.)

Bryan Burdo, Affiliated Climbers of the Montlake Erratic (ACME)