American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Stuart, Lost Planet Airmen

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Mount Stuart, Lost Planet Airmen. Between the northwest face and north ridge on Mount Stuart lie several pitches of superb crack and slab climbing. On June 27, Tobin Kelly and I climbed through small séracs just left of the northwest-face route and up a long thin finger crack on excellent rock. Another tricky pitch up a moss-infested corner brought us to the fourth-class ground on the northwest face. After three pitches of scrambling, we followed a flaring chimney and comer up and left to the base of a long left-facing comer. Stemming, laybacking and thin jams went on for 140 feet to where I stepped out onto a small ledge. Two more pitches on good rock ended on the third-class ledges of the north-ridge route just below the summit. (IV, 5.10b.)

Alan Kearney

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