American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Ogden, 1986

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Mount Ogden, 1986. In late June 1986 Bruce Tickell and I climbed Mount Ogden (Boundary Peak 86; 2281 meters, 7484 feet). It lies about ten miles south of the Taku River. We landed on the lake in front of the Wright Glacier, and hiked south on the glacier to under the peak. The climb was an easy snow slog until the last 1000 feet. From there we traversed under the west face and ascended a ridge from the northwest; it was mostly fourth class with a few harder sections. The climb took 16 hours from camp at 3000 feet. We also made two attempts on Mount Fremont Morse, but were turned back by technical difficulties both from the north and the south sides. Expecting little more than a few roped pitches, we had little other than a rope for assistance. A little more determination and hardware would suffice to make this ascent.

Gerald Buckley, Unaffiliated

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