American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, P 9400, Chitina Glacier, Saint Elias Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

P 9400, Chitina Glacier, Saint Elias Mountains. Dan Doak and I were dropped at Huberts Landing at 2000 feet on the Chitina River to complete a climb I had tried with another climber in July. On September 16, we hiked along the north side of the Chitina Glacier to the base of P 9400 at 2400 feet. We climbed scree and through spruces to establish camp at 5200 feet on the south face of the mountain at the same site we had used in July. On our trip in July, we had enjoyed great views of Logan, King Peak and Saint Elias, but on this later one, we were constantly threatened by snow clouds. On the 17th, we hiked through fresh snow to 6900 feet, the base of the actual climb, at the foot of the south face below P 9000. We climbed a 45° snow-and-ice gully which lies just east of P 8645, up over a couple of steep ice steps onto the west ridge at 8700 feet. (This was our high point in July, when we climbed a rock buttress up the south face to reach P 8645.) Dan and I then followed the heavily corniced ridge over P 9000 and P 9300 and on to the main summit of P 9400. We had no distant vistas, but the view 7000 feet down onto the Chitina Glacier was breathtaking. P 9400 lies three miles northwest of the junction of the Ram and Chitina Glaciers. I believe this was the first ascent of the peak.

Danny W. Kost, Unaffiliated

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