P 11,091, P 10,300 and P 9810, Eldridge Glacier. Our expedition was composed of mountain guides: Bruno Musi, Giorgio Passino, Giuseppe Cheney, Eliseo Cheney, Henry Truchet and me as leader. We set up Base Camp on May 29 on the north fork of the Eldridge Glacier at 4600 feet at the eastern edge of Denali National Park. During the first days, we explored the very beautiful area. On June 2 we established Camp I at 5500 feet. The next day Musi and Passino made an unsuccessful attempt on P 9218 where they climbed several pitches of rotten rock before being turned back by bad weather. On June 6 we moved to Camp II at 7500 feet. On June 7, we all climbed P 10,300 at the head of the glacier from the east, where we found difficult ice up to 50°. (This same route was first climbed on July 4, 1958 by Adams Carter, Barrett Morgan, Harold Janeway, Sandy Weld, Fred Churchill, Bill Loomis, Doug Bingham, Dave Helprin and George Erlanger.) On June 8, Musi and Passino attempted the north ridge of Mather but had to give up because of bad weather. On June 9, Musi, Passino and I headed for P 11,091, which lies just east of Mather. We started up into the cirque which lies between it and Mather. After having overcome notable ice and mixed difficulties (ice up to 65°), we reached the summit at 12:30 A.M. (This same route was climbed on July 17, 1960 by Adams Carter, Tom Bisbee, Nat Goodhue, Doug Bingham, Brian Wilson and David Atherton.) Late in the afternoon of June 10, Musi and Passino headed for P 9810. They ascended a 2000-foot-high face and got to the summit in bad weather, having climbed hard brittle ice up to 70°. (The first ascent of P 9810 was made from the north from the Muldrow Glacier side by Adams Carter and Roger Dane on July 4, 1957.) They descended an easier ridge to the north and then to the east. Both the ascent and the descent routes were new. Bad weather prevented further ascents and we returned to Talkeetna on June 16.
Cosimo Zappelli, Società delle Guide, Courmayeur, Italy