American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, West Tripyramid, Northwest Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

West Tripyramid, Northwest Ridge. On August 22, Scott Gill, Randy Waitman and I climbed a new route, the northwest ridge of West Tripyramid (3572 meters, 11,720 feet). We established our high camp at 6400 feet on the Traleika Glacier after a five-day approach via Wonder Lake, the Peters Glacier and Gunsight Pass. This included one storm day. The Peters Glacier has surged and is generally impassable below the Tluna Icefall. The Muldrow Glacier between Gunsight Pass and the Traleika was heavily crevassed, necessitating caution. Tripyramid is 11 miles east-northeast of Denali. The route rises 5300 feet and we rate it Grade III. All climbing was unroped except for two pitches of 40° to 50° ice directly below the summit, which we climbed simultaneously with protection. Descent was by the ascent route. The climb took 13 hours round-trip.

Cliff Beaver, Unaffiliated

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