American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Broken Tooth, West Ridge

United States, Alaska

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Thomas Bauman
  • Climb Year: 1987
  • Publication Year: 1988

Jack Lewis and I climbed the west ridge of the Broken Tooth, gaining the ridge from the southwest and making the third ascent of the peak. Our route is probably the easiest of the three routes that have been done. The major problem was the weather and it was good enough only on the third try. Two rock pitches and a lot of wallowing in depth hoar put us on the west ridge. Snow steps on the ridge took us to a rock tower, which we climbed on the right. Then hard ice brought us to the summit tower and three pitches of good rock climbing to the summit ridge. It was then a hike to the top (IV, 5.9).

Thomas Bauman

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