American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, New Routes and Interesting Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

New Routes and Interesting Ascents. Mount McKinley: No new routes were completed in 1987. The Northwest Buttress was climbed by a team of four, two of whom reached the North Peak. The South-Face Haston-Scott route received its third ascent by Americans Paul Cagner and Bill Crouse. Broken Tooth: Mugs Stump and Steve Quinlan climbed a new technical route on the south face. Tom Bauman and Jack Lewis did the first ascent of the west ridge. Ruth Gorge Peaks: Austrians Andreas Orgler and Sepp Jöchler did some fine climbs above the Ruth Gorge, reported below. Kichatna Spires: Seth Shaw, Robert Tingle, James Garrett and Conrad Anker ascended the southeast face of Gurney Peak. (See article.) Mount Mather Area: A new route on P 9810 was completed by Italians led by Cosimo Zappelli. West Tripyramid: Scott Gill, Randy Waitman and Cliff Beaver of the National Park Service completed the first ascent of the northwest ridge.

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