Kongur Attempt. Nancey Goforth, Kathy Nilson, Pat Dillingham, Joan Provencher, Nancy FitzSimmons-Bloom, Deb Pranian, Suzanne Hopkins, Carole Petiet and I* traveled to Xinjiang to attempt Kongur (7719 meters, 25,325 feet) during June and July. We were the first American women’s expedition granted a permit to climb in China. We hoped to repeat the southwest rib climb, by which the 1981 British expedition made the first and only ascent of Kongur. We arrived at Base Camp at 14,800 feet on June 16. After several days of acclimatization, we began skiing loads up the Corridor Glacier. We used no high-altitude porters. Our liaison officer, Me Me Ti, and interpreter, Su Keren, stayed at Base Camp. Advance Base was established on the Koksel Glacier at 17,000 feet on June 27 and occupied on July 1. By the time Camp I at 19,200 feet was made, only four of us were able to proceed; the others had a variety of serious respiratory infections. The weather also began to deteriorate with daily snowfall. Camp II at 21,000 feet was established on July 10. FitzSimmons-Bloom, Dillingham, Petiet and I continued to carry loads to Camp II. While we moved up to Camp II for our summit push on July 14, we reluctantly decided to retreat due to bad weather and avalanche conditions. We could not have completed the route in the time remaining.

Kathleen Giel

* Recipient of a Vera Watson-Alison Chadwick Onyszkiewicz grant.