American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt, Tien Shan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt, Tien Shan. We hoped to climb Tuomur, which the Soviets call Pik Pobedy, from the Chinese side. Our Japanese women’s expedition was made up of Dr. Shiori Hashimoto, Yuko Kuramatu, Mayuri Yasuhara, Nobuko Yanagisawa, Kiyoko Ishikawa, Yoko Nakamura, Fumie Kimura, Norkio Otuka, Kazuko Bizen and me as leader. There were many glaciers and so finding the right approach was difficult. We placed Base Camp at 3900 meters on July 27. Camps I and II were established at 4800 and 5400 meters on August 1 and 5. On August 13 we had a very big avalanche at 6200 meters. Three of us were carried down 500 meters, but we were unhurt. On the 16th during the night, another avalanche swept three tents away at Camp II at 5400 meters. I was carried into a crevasse and suffered a broken leg. The expedition was given up.

Junko Tabei, Japanese Alpine Club

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