American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Changtse

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Changtse. A large joint Japanese-Chinese expedition was made up of 17 Japanese, 19 Chinese climbers, five Chinese supporters and three Chinese press members. The Japanese leader was T. Horiuchi. They arrived at Base Camp at 5050 meters on April 23 and placed Advance Base at the confluence of the Changtse and East Rongbuk Glaciers on April 30. After ascending the Changtse Glacier they climbed the east ridge. After placing a temporary camp at 6200 meters, they established Camp I at 6930 meters on May 8. On May 10 sixteen climbers reached the east ridge at 7100 meters and continued on to the summit (7553 meters, 24,780 feet). The eight Japanese included S. Matsubara, Y. Miyamoto, T. Furuhata, K. Shimakata, Masamitsu Yamada and Makoto Yamada and the eight Chinese included the Tibetan woman Gunsang. A second summit party on May 11 was composed of eight Chinese. The Japanese who were to have been with them had to withdraw to evacuate a climber suffering from high-altitude sickness.

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