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Asia, China, Everest Attempt

Everest Attempt. Our expedition hoped to climb Everest by the North Col route without high-altitude porters or artificial oxygen. We were six climbers: Luis Bernardo, Pedro Nicolás, Salvador Rivas, Angel Sánchez, Carlos Soria and I as leader; Dr. Mariano Arrazola, scientist Eduardo M. de Pisón and photographer Tote Trenas. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III, and IV at 5150, 6100, 6500, 7050 (on the North Col) and 7600 meters on March 22, 31, April 1, 19 and May 9 respectively. The wind was strong and continuous, making progress difficult near the North Col and nearly impossible above Camp IV. The wind destroyed tents in various camps and in Camp IV blew away several loads which had been tied down on a platform. Rivas had to quit as he could not acclimatize. We kept on trying to get higher until June 2. Several climbers spent a month and a half above 6500 meters and even 18 days above 7000 meters. We were well acclimatized and hoped to make the summit until the end, but we were prevented by the wind. We made a film and carried out geomorphological and geological studies.

Jerónimo López, Federación Española de Montañismo