American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Nianqintanggula

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Nianqintanggula. A 12-person expedition from Tohoku University in Japan was led by Mario Kuzunushi. They left Lhasa on March 25 and traveled about 100 kilometers on the highway and another four off of it to place Base Camp at 4800 meters at Panyuto. Advance Base was established on April 5 at 5300 meters near the frozen lake, Panitsuo. Nianqintanggula has a row of subsidiary peaks to its southeast of 7111, 7117 and 7046 meters. From Advance Base, P 6053 on the south side of the first was climbed for acclimatization. The party ascended the south glacier after crossing the frozen lake and on April 8 established Camp I at 5700 meters on a branch glacier. On the 17th Camp II was first placed at 6230 meters where the route reaches the west ridge and then on the 20th moved up to the west-ridge col at 6270 meters. The weather deteriorated in the second half of April. On May 3 a temporary Camp III was set up on the west ridge at 6600 meters and that was moved up three days later to 6800 meters. Rope was fixed to the base of the summit rock wall to 7000 meters. On May 8 Hiroshi Naganuma, Yusake Maruyama and Michiharo Wada overcame the UIAAIV + rock to reach the summit (7162 meters, 23,495 feet according to the Japanese although an altitude of 7088 meters, 23,584 feet has been given us by the Chinese). [It is not clear to the Editor where this peak is located.]

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