American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Gyala Peri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Gyala Peri. In 1985 the Himalayan Association of Japan sent two men to reconnoiter Gyala Peri, which lies just north of the great bend of the Yalu-Tsangpo (Brahmaputra). In 1986 an expedition of six returned with Kazuo Tobita as their leader. The approach was difficult with constant rain and dangerous river crossings. They set up Base Camp at 3200 meters on September 16. Their route was the west face and then the south ridge. Climbing began on September 22. Advance Base was placed at 4200 meters at the foot of the west face on September 25. Camps I and II were established on October 3 and 11 at 5000 and 5650 meters. They gained the south ridge at 6000 meters and placed Camps III and IV on it at 6300 and 6750 meters on October 19 and 21. Two unsuccessful summit tries were made on October 29 and 30. On October 31 Yoshio Ogata, Yasuhiro Hashimoto and Hirotaka Imamura got to the summit (7151 meters, 23,461 feet). Further details and photographs appear in Iwa To Yuki Annual 1986 and N° 120 of February, 1987.

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