American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Nanga Parbat. After a four-day approach, on June 20 Italians Sergio Martini, Fausto De Stefani, Almo Giambisi and Carlo Claus got to Base Camp at 4200 meters at the foot of the Diamir Face. Despite bad weather, they established Camps I and II at 4950 and 6000 meters. They prepared the route along with a Spanish expedition. The Diamir route is steep up to 7000 meters, where they placed Camp IV in the first days of August before bad weather drove them down. On August 13 all but Claus, who was 60 years old and had not acclimatized well, were back in Camp IV. An attempt on the 14th failed in deep snow. They were joined by Spaniards Gomez, Vidaurre and García at the high camp. All six set out on August 15. Giambisi had to turn back early in the cold and he did not escape frostbite. The other five reached the summit of Nanga Parbat. [Strangely enough, Italian accounts do not mention the Benelux expedition, which was on the mountain at the same time.]

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