American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Nanga Parbat. Our Benelux expedition had as members Belgians Jan Vanhees, Lut Vivijs and Pascale Noel (the latter two are ladies), Luxemburger Eugène Berger and me from the Netherlands. In mid-June Vanhees, Vivijs and I traveled to the Swat valley, hoping to climb Falakser (5918 meters) above the village of Kalam. It proved very difficult, mainly because of the aggressive attitude of the local people. To avoid trouble, we had to ask permission and police protection at Madyan. Although we reached 5250 meters on the north ridge, the route by which the mountain had previously been climbed, the snow conditions were bad and the ridge badly corniced. On June 20 we returned to Kalam. On July 4 we started the approach march to Nanga Parbat. On July 7 we got to Base Camp at 4150 meters at the far end of the Diamir valley. From July 13 to 15 we climbed to 5000 meters on the Mazeno ridge. From July 17 to 21 we made a second acclimatization trip on Ganalo Peak but were stopped at 5750 meters by bad weather. On July 28, after bad weather, we installed Camp I on Nanga Parbat. On July 29 we climbed the Low couloir to Camp II. After more bad weather, on August 2, 3 and 4 we went to Camps I, II and III, lay over in III in bad weather on the 5th, and continued to Camp IV on August 6, still in bad weather. We descended to Base Camp. On August 11 we started up again and were back in Camp IV at 7200 meters on August 14. On August 15 eleven climbers (Italians and Spanish were also active on the mountain) headed for the summit. The three of us and one Italian returned because of cold and sickness, but Berger kept on with Spaniards Miguel Gómez, Rafael Vidaurre and Moisés Garcia and Italians Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini. Berger had to turn back from near the summit but the Italians and Spaniards reached the top. Vanhees, Vivijs and I decided to make another attempt. We left Camp IV at 10:30 P.M. on August 15 under a bright moon and in fine weather. After twelve hours of continuous climbing we reached the summit at 10:30 A.M. on August 16. The next day we got back to Base Camp.

Hans Lanters, Koninklijke Nederlandse Alpen Vereniging

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