American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our original objective was a new route on Nanga Parbat, the route attempted by Mummery on the Diamir Face. Persistent bad weather and observation of the numerous avalanches on the lower part of the face made us decide to climb the normal route on the Diamir Face. However, above Camp IV in the Bazhin Basin, we climbed to the summit by the variant followed by the Basques Zuloaga and Kike de Pablo in 1983. From Camp IV the route goes horizontally south to a point just below the summit to climb directly up snow slopes oriented west. We were Dr. Juan Caridad, Rafael Vidaurre, Julio Muñoz, Moisés Garcia and I as leader. Camp I was at 4950 meters at the foot of a rock spur to the right of the Kinshofer Icefield, protected from avalanches. Camp II at 6200 meters was on an ice ridge below rocks and very airy. Camp III was finally placed at 6650 meters on an ice platform, moved down slightly from a rock-and-ice spur. Camp IV was at 7250 meters in the Bazhin Basin. The first summit attempt on August 5 was made by Italians Giambisi, De Stefani and Martini and by me, but after four hours we were driven back by weather and bad snow conditions. We returned to Base Camp. On August 11 members of all three expeditions set out again. We were at Camp IV on the 14th. On August 15 García, Vidaurre and I and Italians De Stefani and Martini got to the summit at three P.M. after twelve hours of climbing. Visibility was poor; it was windy and cold. One Italian and four of the Benelux climbers who had started with us did not get to the top, although on the 16th three of the Benelux expedition made it.

Miguel Gómez, Valencia, Spain

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