Asia, Pakistan, Lupghar Sar East Attempt

Publication Year: 1987.

Lupghar Sar East Attempt. We went from the Shimshal River to the Momhil Glacier, hoping to try the east ridge of Lupghar East (7200 meters), but there were dangerous hanging glaciers on the ridge. We decided to try the climb by the col between Lupghar Sar East and Dut Sar (6858 meters). We reached Base Camp on the Momhil Glacier at 4200 meters on July 5. Camp I was placed on July 10 on a little glacier on the north side of the east ridge. On July 17 we made camp below the couloir. On August 1 we tried to climb the final 150-meter-high snow wall below the col but failed. The climb was abandoned. We were Miss Ihoko Sasaki, Miss Miyuki Tanaka, Yoshio Maruyama, Osamu Kagaya and I as leader.

Hideo Odashima, Akita Climbers Club, Japan