American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Shani, Naltar Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Shani, Naltar Valley. Guy Muhlemann and I, members of our Scots expedition, on August 14 reached the summit of Shani (5800 meters, 19,029 feet), near Gilgit, in the Karakoram. Base Camp was situated at 3750 meters below the east side of the mountain. The route climbed a glacier below the north face to reach the west ridge. It would be a suitable descent for anyone contemplating an ascent of any of the excellent and difficult lines on the south or north sides of the mountain. On August 19 Dairena Gaffney, Sally Macintyre and we two climbed Sentinel Peak (5260 meters, 17,257 feet) at the head of the Naltar valley.

Roger D. Everett, Alpine Climbing Group

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