Yakshin Gardin Sar. Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, Tomás Miguel and I left Pasu on June 6. We reached Base Camp in six days with 13 very good porters. We used the same Base Camp and the same route as the 1984 Austrian party. The first attempt ended at 6400 meters due to lack of food, bad weather and fatigue. We reached the summit (7530 meters, 24,705 feet) on July 9 on the second try from camp at 6500 meters after three bivouacs. We needed two more for descent in bad weather. The main problems were the snow and the difficulty. We used the fixed rope of previous parties. We suffered serious frostbite and several of us have lost toes and fingers.

Alejandro Arranz, Spain