American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Broad Peak. Numerous ascents of Broad Peak by the normal route are now being made every year. Some are given in separate reports. See accounts by Josef Rakoncaj, Norman Dyhrenfurth, Gregorio Ariz and Tomo Cesen. Swiss led by Frank Tschirky and Germans and Austrians under the leadership of Franz Piffl joined forces. On July 7 Austrians Fritz Schreimoser and Sebastian Oelzel got to the summit. The foresummit, which is 17 meters lower than the main summit, was reached that same day by German Peter Brill, Austrian Henriette Eberwein and Swiss Bruno Sprecher and on July 8 by German Max Wallner and Swiss Daniel Schaer and Alain Fenart. On August 16 Germans Michael Dacher, Siegfried and Gabriele Hupfauer and Karl Fassnacht climbed the peak. Fassnacht was badly frostbitten on the descent and had to be evacuated by helicopter from Base Camp. This was Dacher’s eighth 8000er and Sigi Hupfauer’s fifth. Frau Hupfauer was the sixth woman to climb Broad Peak. Also on August 16 an Australian Army party led by Major Patrick A. Cullinan put eight men on the summit. They were Cullinan, Major Brian Agnew, Captains Zacharias Zaharias, Peter Lambert, Terry McCullagh, and James Van Gelder, and Messrs. Michael Rheinberger and Jonathon Chester. After descending from K2, Wanda Rutkiewicz made an unsuccessful solo attempt. Coming from their climb of Chogolisa, Scots Liam Elliott, Hamish Irvine and Ulric Jessop climbed high on Broad Peak. On the summit ridge, Elliott fell through on overhanging cornice and was killed. The attempt was given up.

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