American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Southeast Face of K2

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Southeast Face of K2. Our expedition consisted of Viktor Grošelj, leader, Bogdan Bišcak, Rado Fabjan, Žare Gugej, Tomaš Jamnik, Dušan Jelincic, Silvo Karo, Pavle Kozjek, Nico Kregar, Matevš Lenarcic, Mojmir Štangelj, Andrej and Marija Štremfelj and me. We established our first Base Camp at 4900 meters at the foot of Broad Peak on July 8 and Camps I and II at 6200 and 7000 meters on July 11 and 16. The next day four of us climbed to 7500 meters but abandoned the attempt due to bad weather and deep snow. We established Camp III at 7500 meters on July 26 and on the 28th Grošelj and Bišcak reached the summit of Broad Peak. The next day Fabjan, Jamnik, Andrej and Marija Štremfelj got to the top. The latter was the first Yugoslavian woman to climb an 8000er. That same day, I soloed to the top from Base Camp in 19 hours. Kozjek reached the top solo on July 30. The last party, Jelincic, Karo, Lenarcic and Štangelj, succeeded on August 4. Quickly after the success on Broad Peak, Bišcak, Grošelj, Kozjek and Andrej Štremfelj launched an alpine-style climb on Gasherbrum II. They made the round-trip from a different Base Camp in 32 hours. From a bivouac on the plateau, they reached the summit in 14 hours on August 4. I made a reconnaissance ascent of the southeast face of K2 from 5300 to 8000 meters. Starting on the afternoon of August 3, I reached the shoulder of K2 the next day in 17 hours. The route followed in some parts the one the British tried in 1983 and finished on the shoulder, where it joined the Abruzzi Ridge (UIAA VI-, and V+, 75°). After reaching the Abruzzi Ridge, I climbed another 100 meters but because of strong wind and snowfall I descended via the Abruzzi.

Tomo Cesen, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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