American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India-Eastern Karakoram, Sia Kangri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Sia Kangri. We have returned from traversing the entire Siachen Glacier and an ascent of Sia Kangri (7422 meters, 24,350 feet). There was a war going on, right in the heart of the mountains of central Asia, a war mostly unknown to the outside world. An international team of Americans, Canadians, a Briton and Indians was pinned down by Pakistani heavy artillery at 17,000 feet below the Sia La. On June 20 my co-leader, Major Cherian, our liaison officer Major Sethi and I decided to cancel the ascent of Sia Kangri by our American team. The Indians continued. There was shelling of the south face at 22,500 feet on June 22 while the climbers were on their way up. The Pakistani forces at Conway Saddle (20,670 feet) were only 600 yards away from the Indians. Indians Shafi, Paljor, Amar, Angchuck, Des Raj and Cham Charma did reach the summit of Sia Kangri. Jerry Corr, Jim Caruthers, Walt Hotchkiss, Dr. Paul Kustra and Briton Mark Jennings got to Indira Col and Turkestan La.

Leo Le Bon

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