P 6230, Kishtwar Himal. Bob Reid and I made the first ascent of P 6230, previously known to some as “Kishtwar Weisshorn.” We climbed the southwest face of this pyramidal mountain. We approached from the Dharlang Nala with six excellent porters from Dangel and established Base Camp on August 27 at 4250 meters. After crossing a ridge west of the face, we placed Advance Base on August 29 at 4725 meters near the snout of the glacier below and west of the face. In good weather we set out, taking only two 9mm ropes and three days’ food. Straightforward ice climbing led to a terrace, from which steeper climbing that culminated in awkward crevasses and a short undercut ice wall led to a bivouac below and left of a stable sérac at 5500 meters. The following day several hours of snow climbing took us to a 300-meter-long, 40° to 55° summit icefield. We got to the summit (6230 meters, 20,440 feet) at 1:30 P.M. on August 31 after climbing for 7½ hours from the bivouac. Due to a shortage of ice screws for rappels, the route was down-climbed and the bivouac was reached in the dark. We descended the rest of the route the next day.

Edward Farmer, England