American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India-Garhwal, Datopanth, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Satopanth, South Face. The members of our expedition were Marek Glogorowski, Tomasz Kopys, Andrzej Mierzejewski, Krysztof Pilawski, Aleksander Rygier, Michal Takarewski, Dr Ryszard Urbanik, Ziemowit Wirski and I as leader. We established Base Camp at Nandaban at 4300 meters on May 26. Advance Base was placed on May 26 on the Swachand Glacier below the south face of Satopanth at 5000 meters, On June 9 Kopys and I started on the summit climb up the south face and took three days to complete the climb at six P.M. on June 12. We descended the north-face route, getting back to Base Camp on June 13. Our route led through couloirs and ice-and-snow bands. We went up the middle of the summit cone and emerged to the right on the ridge below the summit. Our bivouacs on the ascent were at 6200 and 6800 meters. The face is about 1500 meters or 5000 feet high. The snow conditions were difficult with soft, loose snow and the rock was rotten and stratified the wrong way.

Ryszard Kolakowski, Klub Wysokogórski Warszawa, Poland

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