Tripura Tumba (Hanging Glacier Peak). On September 12 Katashi Tokimoto, Shunsuke Kobayakawa, Hiroaki Ioka and I as leader set out from Jumla with 50 porters. We went up the Jagdura valley north of Hurikot village. The approach was difficult. At times we had to retrace our steps because we could not get up the valley on one side or the other. We sometimes had to cross the river with a rubber boat. Base Camp at 4500 meters was placed on September 24 at the head of the Hanging Glacier valley on the north side of Tripura Tumba. We started to make the route on the 26th and placed Camp I at 5500 meters on the northwest ridge on September 29. On October 6 we reached the 5700-meter col but could not find a campsite. The northwest ridge above the col was knife-edged mixed snow and rock. On October 14 we established Camp II at 6300 meters, cutting into the steep snow slope. On the 15th we extended fixed ropes for 400 meters but were storm-bound the next day. On October 17 Tokimoto, Sirdar Ang Phuri Lama and I set out at six A.M. and reached the summit (6563 meters, 21,500 feet) at 10:15 A.M. in windy but fine weather. This was the first ascent of the peak.

Noriyuki Hata, Okayama University Alpine Club, Japan