American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri II, Ascent and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Dhaulagiri II, Ascent and Tragedy. A four-man Korean expedition to the south face and east ridge of Dhaulagiri II was led by Lee Don-Yong. They established an Advance Base at 4900 meters and Camps I, II and III at 5400, 5800 and 6900 meters. Camp IV was destroyed by a snow avalanche almost immediately after it was set up and it was not re-established. On May 12 Kim Sung-Kyu and Sherpas Dorje and Dakipa reached the summit (7751 meters, 25,429 feet) in a nearly 12-hour climb from Camp III at 6900 meters. During the descent to Camp III Kim disappeared and was never seen again. No one knows what happened to him, but it is believed that he probably fell from the difficult, steep ice section at 7300 meters. This was the first Korean ascent of Dhaulagiri II. Cho Myung-Ho and Kim Ki-Tae also participated.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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