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Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri. We climbed Dhaulagiri by the normal northeast ridge. We got to Base Camp at 4650 meters on April 5. There were many crevasses in the glacier going to Camp I at 5700 meters, which we established on April 10. Camps II and III were set up at 6600 and 7150 meters on April 20 and 22. We fixed 800 meters of rope between Camps II and III. On May 3, five of us set out from Camp III with a tent which we left at the site of Camp IV at 7500 meters. Sepp Hirtreiter and I got to the summit at noon. Heinz Schauer, Dr. Kurt Dehn and Ang Phurba Sherpa could not make the last 50 meters to the top because of a severe thunder storm. Five of us bivouacked without sleeping bags in a two-man tent at Camp IV. On May 5, Walter Larcher, Willi Odenthal and Dr. Lutz Pflegung climbed to the summit from Camp IV. Larcher is Austrian and the others German.

Günther Härter, Deutscher Alpenverein