American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Kakshin Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. The first Yugoslavian women’s Himalayan expedition hoped to climb the southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South; 7219 meters, 23,683 feet), the 1982 Japanese route. Marija Frantar, leader, Nives Boršic, Maja Dolenc, Irena Komprej, Ana Mazar, Danica Mlinar, Mira Uršic, Sanja Vranac and I got to Base Camp at 4000 meters on April 16. It was 800 meters too low because the porters refused to carry higher. On April 18 we established Advance Base at 4800 meters. We then followed a big couloir leading to a snow plateau. From there on we did not follow the original route but used a couloir further left, which we considered safer. Camp I at 5700 meters was placed on April 24. We then climbed 2½ kilometers along the ridge, going up and down on some hard ice-and-rock climbing. Camp II was set up at 5800 meters on May 9. From there we climbed to 6100 meters, where we decided to abandon the attempt. The ridge was narrow and long. We had very bad weather with much lightning. Of the 45 days we were on the mountain, only four were without snowfall. The bad weather came at least by nine or ten o’clock.

Vlasta Kunaver, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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