Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, Attempt by the Northwest Spur of "Nameless Peak"

Publication Year: 1987.

Annapurna, Attempt by the Northwest Spur of “Nameless Peak.” Between Annapurna I and Varah Shikhar (Fang) lies a peak which must be over 7700 meters, which has been called the “Nameless Peak.” A distinct spur descends to the valley of the Miristhi Khola. Dr. Hervé Bouvard, Patrick Gabarrou, Pemba Norbu Sherpa and I hoped to climb this spur and then carry on up the west ridge to the summit of Annapurna. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 4000,4600, 5500 and 6700 meters on September 16, 18, 20 and 22. Base Camp was at the bottom of the northwest spur of Annapurna, in the same place as that of Messner in 1984 when he ascended the northwest face. Our route this year was to the left of our 1984 attempt and ascended the left side of the spur. It lay partially to the right of Messner’s route, which we followed more or less from Base Camp to Camp II. From Camp I to II, at Camp II and somewhat above, the route is very exposed to avalanches. Camp III was placed at the same place as our 1984 Camp IV. We climbed above Camp III until we rejoined the Messner route at about 7000 meters. We suggest that the still unclimbed “Nameless Peak” be called “Namaste.”

Henri Sigayret, Groupe de Haute Montagne