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Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung Southwest Ridge

Langtang Lirung Southwest Ridge. The eight-man expedition which I led established Base Camp at 4250 meters on September 18 below the previously unclimbed southwest ridge. We placed Camps I, II and III at 5100, 5500 and 6000 meters on September 22 and 27 and October 1. Our progress was slowed by bad weather. On October 4 we tried to get to Camp IV but could get to only 6500 meters. On October 8, Yoon Kye-Jung, Song Suk-Hee, Sin Chang-Jin, Jon Weon-Sik, Ang Rinzing Sherpa and I left Camp III for the summit at four A.M. but did not reach until ten P.M. a snow wall of 80°, where we bivouacked. The next day we climbed the wall and got to the last pitch of the southwest ridge, where at 7000 meters we set up Camp IV. On October 10 we six left Camp IV at six A.M. and got to the summit at ten.

Yoon Deong-Jung, South Korea