American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Pumori, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Pumori, South Face. Base Camp was established on October 7 on the eastern flanks of Kala Pattar. On October 10 we pitched a tent at 5500 meters on Kala Pattar where Rick Allen and I acclimatized. The U.S. members, Morris Kittleman and Dave Saiget, arrived at Base on the 11th and decided to spend several days acclimatizing. On the 14th we two Scots began to climb the south face and bivouacked at 5600 meters. The following day took us up mixed ground where we were forced to abseil into the main couloir. We climbed this for several difficult pitches and bivouacked at 5850 meters. We ascended the rest of the couloir on the 16th and bivouacked in a cave at 6100 meters. We moved together over the next two days, bivouacking at 6600 and 7000 meters. On the morning of the 19th at ten A.M. we stood on the summit. We descended the southwest ridge for several hundred meters and then climbed down the large couloir on the west face, arriving at a safe site on the Changri Shar at ten P.M. at 5400 meters. The next day we returned to Base Camp. The Americans later made an attempt but retreated from 6000 meters because of high winds. We believe this was a previously unclimbed route.

Sandy Allan, Scottish Mountaineering Club

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