American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Shar Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Lhotse Shar Attempt. Scots Mal Duff and Sandy Allan hoped to make a two-man, alpine-style ascent of the south face of Lhotse Shar in early May. This quick ascent was never achieved. They were climbing on the southeast face for acclimatization when, on May 9 at 7000 meters, Duff was hit on the head by a falling sérac and only just managed to descend safely to Base Camp. He left for medical treatment. The climb appeared over until Miss Alison Hargreaves, who had just scaled Kangtega with Jeff Lowe’s American expedition, joined Allan in another bid on Lhotse Shar by the southeast face. They had been on the mountain together a very few days when they were forced at 6500 meters to abandon the effort because of slab avalanches. The highest point reached on the mountain was 7000 meters on May 9.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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