Lhotse Shar Attempt. We were Beda Fuster, Werner Steininger and I as leader. We got to Base Camp on September 21 at 5350 meters on the moraine between Lhotse Shar and Imjatse (Island Peak). We carried loads up the rocky spur to 5750 meters for three days and established Advance Base on September 24. On the 25th Fuster and I reconnoitered to 6100 meters, left a dump there and fixed rope over the first step, but the weather went bad. A second attempt from October 2 to 5 failed after rope had been fixed over the second step and the night spent at Camp I at 6750 meters, but again bad weather drove us back. After a third attempt failed in bad weather, Fuster and I went back up and on the second day, October 19, got to Camp I which was badly damaged by avalanche snow. On the third day we climbed to 7250 meters and established Camp II in clear but very windy weather. On October 21, I was sick and stayed in Camp II. Fuster set out at 4:30 A.M. alone for the summit. At eleven A.M. he reached the snow dome at 8050 meters but the wind gusts were too strong for him to continue over the narrow ridge to the summit slopes. He had to turn back 350 meters below the summit. After one more night in Camp II, we descended to Base Camp.

Toni Spirig, Schweizer Alpen Club