American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Roger Massardier, the leader of this French expedition, broke both his legs very early in the climb while on moraine just above Base Camp and so there were only three members with no climbing Sherpas attempting an unclimbed route on the south face directly to the summit. This would have been to the right of the Yugoslavian route of last autumn. They regret that they did not make a fast alpine-style ascent, for the weather in early December was excellent, but by the time they were looking for the site of Camp II, the winds were very strong. The wind twice broke their tent at Camp I, and on December 13 they gave up. Their highest point was 6100 meters, reached on December 10 by Bruno Guibert and Bruno Rebelle.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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