American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam West Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Ama Dablam West Face. Our expedition was composed of Swiss Ruedi Homberger, Christian Jäggi, Willi Kuhn and Franco Giorgetta and Czechoslovaks Josef Rybicka, Michal Brunner, Jirí Havel, Miroslav Mžourek, Karel Jerhot, Günter Koch and me as leader. It was my idea to climb the line on the west face attempted in 1979 by Peter Hillary. After a couple of days of reconnaissance, from October 9 to 11,1 climbed the route solo, with bivouacs at 5300 and 6500 meters. I reached the summit (6812 meters, 22,350 feet) at 11:10 P.M. on October 11 and bivouacked there. On the next two days I made a very exciting descent via the southwest ridge to 6400 meters and then down the south face. Without such equipment as a rope and pitons, it was very difficult. The ascent was of UIAA difficulty IV + (80°) and the descent IV (70°). A week later, Homberger and Jäggi also climbed the west face. They followed my route to a point where they could traverse right to the top of the comparatively flat section of the southwest ridge, which they followed to the top. They reached the summit on October 18.

Miroslav Šmid, Czechoslovakia

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.