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Asia, Nepal, Chamlang, West Ridge

Chamlang, West Ridge. We got to Base Camp on September 22 with 13 Japanese and three Sherpa members. The approach was difficult in the unpopulated area and because of rain. The unclimbed west ridge looked deceptively easy. On September 26 we established Camp I at 5600 meters despite rockfall danger. On October 3 we placed Camp II at 6100 meters on a ridge covered with sugar snow. Above Camp II the route was particularly difficult on the knife- edged ridge because of unconsolidated granular snow. We fixed 4000 meters of rope. On October 11 we established Camp III at 6500 meters as our final camp. On October 16 Osamu Kushimi and Wangar Sherpa started out at five A.M. and climbed a steep snow comer. After seven hours they reached the summit (7319 meters, 24,012 feet). Four members supported them to 7000 meters.

Akio Shinya, Japan Dairy College