American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Makalu Attempt. Our 4-man attempt on the regular route on Makalu failed. On May 20 Chris Dube and John Bouchard left; Chris had early signs of cerebral edema. Rick Wilcox and I started up on a third assault, but he got severe diarrhea and vomiting at Camp III at 7040 meters. He staggered off down. That left me with three Sherpas. We went up to Camp IV at 7440 meters. After a day of high winds, I set off with the Sherpas on May 26. We could see the top from 7530 meters. We had a nasty surprise. It was all steep rock for the last 380 meters with no snow couloir which used to lead to the east summit ridge. The Sherpas did not want to go any further. I went alone to 8100 meters and then turned back at the foot of the rock.

Ned Gillette

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